Sorry it's been so long since I posted without a follow up. I took the printer in to demo at our 3D Printing Expo and got a lot of positive responses. I had it set up to print a Sharkz (see Thingiverse) in 11 minutes (takes about 45 on a Printrbot). I was using a 0.5 mm nozzle and 0.4 mm layer height. Still love the removable build plate. I definitely prefer the 0.5 mm nozzle over the 0.35, especially with the variable extrusion widths now in S3D and (I think) Cura.ElektrOpa wrote:
my Felix printer has a similar history. I also got it as a 3.0 Dual Head, upgraded it to 3.1 Dual Head two years ago and now bought the upgrade kit to TEC4 Dual Head, but haven't started the upgrade yet.
I would be very much interested in your experiences before I start to make my own
Hope you soon find the time to describe it. Thanks in advance!
Anyway, organizing the expo had me a little burnt out, so I haven't fiddled much with the printer in the last couple weeks. I'll try to gather my thoughts on the upgrade process and post some more soon. I gave Guillaume some feedback on the manual, which he may already have incorporated.
A couple quick points:
Part of the upgrade process involves flipping the motors. If you had zip-tie anchors on, they will have to come off to avoid impinging on the new fan guards, and you will need to use some goo-gone or similar to get the residue off.
The wires are labeled for which extruder they connect to on both ends using some heat shrink; pay attention to this when you connect. It should be hard to mess this up, but I had disconnected the connectors and then reconnected the wrong way and had to fix it. Very avoidable.
Measure out the cable wrap before you put it on; I think there were maybe two pieces of unequal length and I picked the wrong one and so ended up a little short going to the power supply. So not as pretty as it could have been down there.
Before putting finalizing the cable wrap at the extruder head, try putting the cover on to see what it will look like and make sure no bare wires are visible.
The mechanism for adjusting the right hot end relative to the left one was finicky for me. Make sure you have the bracket holding the hot ends in place mounted correctly, as it's possible to fasten things tight without it being in right. If you do this you will see afterwards that the fans don't look right/symmetric. This process is complicated a little by the reduced visibility into the positioning of the hot ends because it is behind the bracket/plate with all the harnessing zip-tied to it.
I find the whole z home thing in the new firmware to be a bit annoying, as it always heats up both extruders. Sometimes I just want to do a quick z home and get frustrated at the extra wait involved. However, I do see the rationale behind it, so I may come around. If not, I think I know how to turn that feature off in the firmware.
Take note that the wires for the right-hand extruder might not be long enough to reach the desired terminals with the new routing; they include an extra set of wires for this eventuality, but it kind of assumes you have the newer 3.1 connectorized extruder motors, so you might have to do a splice. Better to measure this out ahead of time to avoid bundling everything up and then discover you have to redo it because it's not quite long enough.