Looking for OPT1/OPT2 documentation and free Pins

[Dreide]

Pins found so Far with board marked Felix 2.0: (will update this post as I identify them) [...]

The mapping I found looks quite different (PCB v2.0 and PCB v2.1):

OPT1-1 = µc42 = fw42 = PL7: Available for I/O.
OPT1-2 = µc51 = PG0: Used for SD card.
OPT1-3 = µc41 = fw43 = PL6: Available for I/O.
OPT1-4 = µc39 = fw45 = PL4: Available for I/O.
OPT1-5 = µc37 = fw47 = PL2: Available for I/O.
OPT1-6 = µc30 = RESET: Not useful as I/O.

OPT2-1 = VCC
OPT2-2 = VCC
OPT2-3 = µc39 = fw45 = PL4: Available for I/O (same as OPT1-4)
OPT2-4 = µc51 = PG0: Used for SD card (same as OPT1-2).
OPT2-5 = GND
OPT2-6 = GND

Naming convention used above:
* OPT?-?: Header pins as indicated on the PCB.
* µc??: Pin numbers of the µ-controler chip.
* fw??: Pin numbers used in the Repetier firmware (see fastio.h for the mapping between µc?? and fw??).
* P??: ATMEL identifier for the port/bit within the µ-controler.

So the fw?? pin numbers are the ones you would use in the firmware's config file. Note that µc42=fw42 - so you can never go wrong with 42, which we knew already beforehand

[seaton]

It could save a lot of trouble, time and heartache if schematics were released to owners.

I'll double check mine again as I did do it quickly so have no doubt have things wrong, hence why I asked for verification

[Dreide]

It could save a lot of trouble, time and heartache if schematics were released to owners.

I couldn't agree more, but this is well in line with all the other post-buy "support" you receive from FelixPrinters, which neither fits standards a commercial company should strive for, nor does it satisfy the demands of a tinkerer community (IMHO). This forum website, and how the obvious problems with it are handled, speaks volumes.

[aikx]

I couldn't agree more, but this is well in line with all the other post-buy "support" you receive from FelixPrinters, which neither fits standards a commercial company should strive for, nor does it satisfy the demands of a tinkerer community (IMHO). This forum website, and how the obvious problems with it are handled, speaks volumes.

I visited today the Felix booth at Euromold Düsseldorf. They make the next step in business with the pro version line. Removable platform and metalic hotend are improvements of the pro we wished for the 3.x line (but will never come?).
I didn´t speak with guillaume, a customer of the early days is not his focus now, but this is a normal process.

[bill.gertz]

Hey,

Have a look at this post: http://www.felixprinters.com/forum/view ... 8437#p8437

-Bill

[wilco02]

Can anyone tell if it is possible to add automatic bed leveling on a felix 3.0 board?

If yes, what is your experience with it?

i would like to add an Z_MAX_ENDSTOP Sensor to my felix3.0 to improve Z-Probe and autobed levelling.
How can i connect the Opto-Sensor to the board (Guillaume?).
tia

[bill.gertz]

Hey,

I'm working on this now. Generated a new firmware 0.92.8 using the Configuration Tool at the Repetier http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v092/.

These are the steps I took to enable the Z-probe in firmware:

First go to Features tab and check the first two checkboxes on the page (Enable Z-probing & Enable axis compensation)

Second using the pinout diagram (follow link in message above) find an open OPT2 sensor connection). In this case pins 1, 3 & 5 using Digital Pin 45.

Third set the Z-Probe Pin found in the Z-Probe Section to Digital Pin 45. Do not set checkbox Probe triggers on high as this is completely misleading - this alters the logic from active high to active low. So when unchecked the pin will sense a trigger event when the pin is pulled high. Unintuitive as named, when checked the pin will sense a trigger when pulled low. The checkbox name makes absolutely no frigging sense.

Will add more to this thread once I get to the testing stage, but expect a posting to Instructables for the benefit of other Felix Printer owners.

Expect an update in two weeks or so...

Regards,

Bill

Can anyone tell if it is possible to add automatic bed leveling on a felix 3.0 board?

If yes, what is your experience with it?

i would like to add an Z_MAX_ENDSTOP Sensor to my felix3.0 to improve Z-Probe and autobed levelling.
How can i connect the Opto-Sensor to the board (Guillaume?).
tia

[ErikL]

I understand what you're doing but what exactly is the "Enable axis compensation" option for?

[bill.gertz]

"Enable axis compensation" is simply compensation for your printer if it is "... not exactly square but is more like a parallelogram..." See the Axis compensation Section on the Features tab when generating the firmware through the Repetier-Firmware configuration tool. The Section only appears when the checkbox Enable axis compensation is checked.

After a bit of consideration I have regenerated the firmware without the axis compensation. The Felix Printer heavy duty framing makes it resilient to being out of square. We haven't noticed a problem, at least, with our printer.

Good catch.

[ErikL]

Okay. Did you finish your z-probe yet?

I added an inductive proximity sensor which can detect metal at a distance of 8mm and it works but I have the following problem:

The sensor is not able to detect the bed at a distance of 8mm but only at a distance of 3-4mm. The sensor does, however, detect other metal object at a distance of 8mm. So it must be the metal used in the bed that the sensor is not able to detect as easily...

So when I remove the glass (yes I have added a glass plate on my printer) it works perfectly but it's not able to detect the bed when the glass is on top. The glass is only 3mm thick.

So i'm thinking about designing something totally different. I guess I should be able to design and print some parts that would allow me to mount a servo and an opto sensor to the extruder. Then some kind of way to have the servo be able to lock a rod in the up position and be able to let it loose so we can use the rod and the opto as a z-probe switch. Once done measuring the servo should be able to lock the rod back in the up position...

Or I could just use some kind of mechanical switch. But I suppose the opto switches are more accurate?

So before I start working on something new I wanted to know if you have a working z-probe right now? And if so, how did you do it?