Glass Plate

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Re: Glass Plate

Post by gfeliksdal » Wed Apr 17, 2013 6:31 pm

Do you print at 60 degC with ABS or PLA? Looks interesting, will order a few to see the results.

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Post by Hugues » Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:26 pm

satoer wrote:I'm using this stuff:
I've done quite a lot of prints now with it, and it gives me the best sticking results till now. Its A4, so no line marks. I use it with 60 degrees. Don't clean it with acetone (I don't clean it at al)
Stick it with soap water.

sorry for the newbie question here but...
these labels if i understand properly are adhesive, if you peel them.
So do you peel them and stick them to your plate ? or to the kapton film ?
I guess not as you are talking about soap water. But i'm not sure how you fix the label to your plate, and do you still need kapton ?
sorry for the newbie question...
Regards from Switzerland

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Post by satoer » Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:58 pm

I use PLA, never tried ABS yet. I've a spool of ABS lying around, but I'm a bit afraid to fry the thermistor with the increased temperature of the hotend. The info on reprapworld does not mention ABS either.

First you make some soap water. And make the bare aluminum plate really wet with it (so no Kapton). But make sure the electronics can't get wet (put a towel over it) I accidently damaged a opto sensor permanently with the soap water. Then peel the sticker while sticking it to the plate. Don't let the sticker sticks itself, its hard to separate and it damages. Don't worry if it isn't placed right on the aluminum bed, you can adjust it. Now you need a flat piece of plastic. I've used a cd jewel case lid. And press the soap water from the middle of the sheet to the outside. Try to leave no air bubbles. No long strokes from the middle to the outside, just CM for CM. If you do get some air bubbles, you can use a needle pin and press a real tiny hole in it to rub the air out of it.

That's it. Don't use acetone to clean it. Its to aggressive for the plastic film. I actually don't clean it at al. Don't try to pull of a big part if the bed is heated.
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Post by janwijbr » Mon May 06, 2013 11:00 am


I know the thread is already a bit older, but I want to say something about using a glass plate as print bed.

I also bought a frameless picture frame. After some successful prints I had problems getting the PLA stick to the glas plate. I tried cleaning it with sprit (spiritus), benzine (cleaner's solvent), glass cleaner and so on... After all no better results. Not even one thread was holding on the glass plate. the noozle was pulling around a lump that was growing with every movement.

After that I was searching several forums. Found something with hair spray (ultra strong hold). But it didn't work for me. After a while I found out, that the PLA I ordered was not best quality and others had same problems. After all, I can't say if PLA is bad, or glass plate changed it's surface somehow. :shock:

:!: Finally I found the killer tip on a forum, that was working really good :!: :
Take some wood glue (it's this white glue, in Germany it's called "Ponal" by Henkel). Some also call it PVAc (PolyVinylAcetat) or simply PVA glue.

Mix one part of wood glue with four parts of water. Take a painters brush an make a thin film of it on the glass plate. An advantage is, you can take off the glass plate, put the glue on it, let it dry, and put it back there on the heat bed (so no risk to damage electronics). Of course you can also put it on heat bed when still wet, turn on heat bed and it will dry faster.
(After some time of printing you need to renew the glue film. You can remove the glue form the glass plate with water and glass cleaner). Finally no more Kapton is needed at all.

I reccomand to fix glass plate on heat bed with the clips fo the frame or with the ones on the photo. They are cheap. You can get them in nearly every shop that sells writing materials.

I'm still trying, but the first prints I made by this method were holding very tight to the print bed. Please try and give some feedback :) Or post your tips.

Best regards!

PS: I'll post some pics later.
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Post by Mayhem » Fri May 31, 2013 5:37 pm

I just added 2mm sanded class plate and that works great :)
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Post by Hugues » Fri May 31, 2013 5:53 pm

Mayhem wrote:I just added 2mm sanded class plate and that works great :)
with PLA or ABS ?
Regards from Switzerland

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Post by Mayhem » Fri May 31, 2013 6:47 pm

PLA :)
Felix 2.0----> 3.0
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Autodesk fusion 360

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Post by HLA » Sun Jun 02, 2013 11:35 am

Advice on getting prints stick to the glass-plate: rub it with a cheap vodka before printing. Cheap vodka usuall has a relatively high content of sugar and other residuals which make prints stick very well. Remember - pure alcohol will not work (at least it didn't for me).

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Post by superhornet59 » Tue Jun 25, 2013 4:34 am

I use a 3mm glass bed + painters tape. Sticks wicked good, and I get a very flat print surface. When you start printing very large (wide) parts, the deformation (at least in my case) of the aluminum bed becomes all too apparent.

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Post by igull » Mon Jul 15, 2013 10:30 pm

Really just a confirmation of this method.
Since day one, I've always used a 3mm glass plate - I had a couple of 300x270mm sheets cut at the local glaziers - he said it was 'greenhouse glass'. I really wanted it to ensure that the bed was flat as 2mm aluminium tends to warp easily (the heat distribution on the new v2.0 bed is much better too).
He offered to put a 10mm radius on the corners, but I didn't bother as was in a hurry (wish I had, I've caught my face on the corners a few times :-)
I have also always cleaned the glass using 'Mr Muscle Window and Glass Cleaner - (with vinegar :-)' - the same as Windex in the US - it works very well for small items up to say 70-80mm, but thin objects about 120-150mm tended to separate from the bed.
I just used a wash of about 1:5 PVA adhesive (mine was initially an el cheapo brand from a Lidl store) to water and painted it on with a foam brush - it offers a VERY aggresive grip and is essentially a perfect choice.
I've since tried different PVAs that I had to hand and they all gave the same results - titebond/deluxe materials/UHU/screwfix and some kids PVA craft adhesive, all much the same results. I also tried changing the chemistry up to about 1:10 PVA/water with again similar results.
The PVA lasts for ages - none of the hassle with painters tape/kapton etc. When it wears off (after a long time really) - just put the glass in the dishwasher and recoat when dry. I fired up the heated bed after I coated the glass to cure the PVA.
There are some modern model aircraft 'dopes' that are water based that I'm sure would produce similar results - perhaps we can re label them as the 'Acme Heated Glass Bed' adhesive and sell them at a profit :-))
The one down side is the _really_ agressive grip it has. However, my solution is simply to give a smart tap to the line between PLA and glass with a sharp 20mm wood chisel and wooden mallet :-) Sounds a bit agricultural, but it works a treat and I haven't damaged anything yet!

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