Glass Plate

This is the place to show off your felix printer hacks and improvements.
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HLA
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat May 05, 2012 11:35 pm
Location: Vienna, Austria

Glass Plate

Post by HLA » Thu Aug 09, 2012 4:20 pm

Dear All,

Using a piece of normal glass, you can improve the print quality and the stickiness of parts to the print-bed dramatically by creating an absolutely flat print surface.

This is how I improved my printing experience dramatically at nearly zero cost:
1) Go to a nearby home-accessories store and get a 24x30cm picture clip-frame. The size is standard and should be available everywhere. The one I got had a normal glass (not tempered) which was around 1,5mm thick;
2) Place the glass plate from the clip-frame on top of your Felix’s print-bed and fix it with the supplied clips. These clips may need some slight adjusting to make it hold;
3) Level the print bed and enjoy printing!

There are some major advantages to this:
a) Absolutely flat surface which is essential for good quality prints;
b) Very good stickiness of PLA to the glass surface;
c) No warping of edges (I finally got my Faberdashery PLA to stick to the bed, which had massive warping problems before);
d) No need for Kapton-tape – saves time;
e) No gaps between each tape stripe that create lines on the bottom of parts;
f) Supplied slips of the picture frame are decently small and do not stand in the way of Y-axis movements;
g) Very easy and quick to install;
h) Negligible additional cost;

The disadvantages are:
a) Platform needs slightly more time to warm up;
b) May need to hold on to a spare picture frame just in case – glass is simply more brittle than metal ;)

One of the main concerns of using normal glass is that it would usually crack when exposed to high temperatures. However this usually happens when the glass plate is firmly fixed, i.e. has no room to expand. We solve this by using the clips of the picture frame which provide enough stability for the platform, sufficient pressure for the heat transfer, and the possibility for the glass plate to expand slightly. Further problems arise when you use drilled glass plates – these crack very easily when heated, so don’t drill it! ;)

Tipp: The temperature setting for the bed I use is 70degC, which results in around 65degC on the surface.
Tipp: Use alcohol to clean the glass plate before each print. Vodka works too ;)

Happy printing!
HLA
Attachments
imagea.jpeg
image.jpeg
Standard 24x30cm picture clip-frame from the local store
image (2).jpeg
Align the glass plate directly on Felix's print bed
image (1).jpeg
Fix the glass plate using supplied clips
image (3).jpeg
Surface temperature of 65degC reached after less than 10mins
image (4).jpeg
Delicate parts stick well to the surface
image (5).JPG
printing the Y-axis upgrade on the new bed

Kjetilei
Posts: 334
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Stavanger, Norway

Post by Kjetilei » Thu Aug 09, 2012 6:20 pm

Thank you for the tips!

I have been thinking for it for a long time (side my bed is slightly warped) but was afraid that it would add to much weight and decrease the print quality too much.

It is great to see that it is feasible and works great. Kudos for being the first to try it out and reporting back :)

Did you think about the metal clips when/before you bought the frame or was that a happy accident? Great usage that I haven't seen mentioned elsewhere.

I also notice that you have moved the RAMPS board enclosure. Whas that to gain printable height or was it for a different reason?

The last thing I noticed was what seems like a 4-pole connector on the hot end cables. Is this something you have added yourself or something Guillaume has started to supply with the kit? I've been thinking of doing such a modification on my hot end due to all the times I have made adjustments/upgrades etc.

The digital thermometer "gun" is a great investment. I bought mine for under $14 on eBay.

Good luck with the y-axis upgrade. I do believe you will like it.

Happy printing :)

HLA
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat May 05, 2012 11:35 pm
Location: Vienna, Austria

Post by HLA » Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:26 pm

Hey Kjetilei,

This hack was partially made out of a necessity since my printbed is slightly warped too. Now I can use the entire print area, hurray!

So far, I had no issues with the weight since the glass plate feels very light. The idea with the clips was indeed a lucky accident ;)

The RAMPS box was moved since I never managed to close the original; probably due to my inability to guide cables in a neat way. Second reason is to provide enough space for the SD-card module, which is currently waiting to be soldered 8-) Besides, moving the box to the side would increase the Z-span too, as you know. Nevertheless, I was lazy and got the box from a hardware store instead of designing/printing it.

The 4-pole connector is just an add-on for my experiments with hot-ends. Replacing hot-ends is now a piece of cake. The one on the picture is a copy-cat of Felix's original, since the original got clogged and I couldn't clean it (this was before I found out a way of cleaning hopelessly clogged nozzles - see my post in troubleshooting).

I have made other hot-ends too: the idea is to provide a set of easily exchangable hot-ends with 0.35 and 0.5mm nozzles for different types of prints respectively. Printing with 0.5 is great for bulky large parts since it increases print speed. There are also other modifications I would like to add to try out some theories. But I have to say that original Guillaume's hotend is amazing, and it took me quite some time to drill a 0.35mm hole myself...

The thermometer is great. Besides for my Felix printer, I also use it to measure the temp of water before my wife bathes our son :) This model is quite practical for measuring temperature of different materials since you can set the emission coefficient. Besides it has two sensors and thus achieves great precision. I can recommend it.

All the Best,
HLA

Kjetilei
Posts: 334
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Stavanger, Norway

Post by Kjetilei » Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:24 pm

I didn't notice the clone of Guillaumes hot end :) Nice...

Although I like Guillaumes design I too would like to be able to exchange the tip to adjust the print quality/speed depending on the purpose of the part. But I prefer 0.35mm over 0.5mm if I have to choose.

I don't think my thermometer is as advanced as yours, although it is really similar (almost identical).

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gfeliksdal
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Post by gfeliksdal » Sat Aug 11, 2012 1:47 pm

Cool to see these modifications! When you use the glass plate are you also able to use lower temperatures? If that's the case maybe it can also be well suitable for abs printing!

Drilling a 0.35mm hole is almost impossible to do by hand so I've heard from the machining company, so I'm amazed you managed to do it. I'm curious of the thing you would like to try with the hot-end, please enlighten us :)

HLA
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat May 05, 2012 11:35 pm
Location: Vienna, Austria

Post by HLA » Sat Aug 11, 2012 2:43 pm

ABS printing is a wonderful idea :D
I have checked how other makers print ABS on heated glass. Most report success when either heating up to 140deg or using the ABS juice (*) at lower temperatures. I guess the second option might work well enough for 70-90degC bed temperature. Sanding the glass may further improve the performance. ABS printing would be amazing - I hope someone tries it here in forum. I will ask some of the makers here in Vienna for a spare bit of ABS, but not sure anyone uses 1,75mm.

My thoughts on the hot-end and extruder aren’t anything extraordinary. Having a replaceable hot-end is the first idea. The second is to experiment with different forms and configurations including a Bowden-extruder. Let's see what works...

(*) ABS juice is a disolved piece of ABS filament in acetone, as far as I understand it. However, makers have reported great success with sugar-water solutions and even beer :shock: I personally would prefer not to waste beer, but rather try the other options ;)

franchute260
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2012 11:31 pm

Post by franchute260 » Tue Apr 16, 2013 8:02 pm

i did the same with glass, but i scratched it with sandpaper before mont it, and i use hair spray for big print, im really happy now, i recomand do this, there is no bad print now.

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer » Tue Apr 16, 2013 8:21 pm

I've also used a sanded glass plate with great results in the beginning, but suddenly it failed to work. Never was able to get it working again. Now I'm using deskjet transparent printer stickers.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

Trnquill
Posts: 66
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

Post by Trnquill » Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:43 am

Same here with the glass plate. I first sanded it with 800 grit wet sand paper but parts didn't stick. Then I went step by step to coarser sanding papers all the way down to 120 or so. The parts started to stick alright but there was just slight warping at the edges of parts. The warping only got worse during time even if I used acetone to clean the glass before each and every print. Finally I had to toss the glass to bin and switch back to kapton tape (and suffer from a warped print bed again...).

Good tip on kapton: search ebay for 200mm wide kapton and buy a roll. It'll set you back about $20 and is pain to put on the print table (use plenty of soapy water!) but you will get super strong adhesion of prints and no line marks in the bottom edge. :)

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer » Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:14 am

I'm using this stuff:
http://www.avery.ae/product/J8567-25?language_id=13
I've done quite a lot of prints now with it, and it gives me the best sticking results till now. Its A4, so no line marks. I use it with 60 degrees. Don't clean it with acetone (I don't clean it at al)
Stick it with soap water.

It's the same stuff sold here:
http://reprapworld.com/?products_detail ... _1619_1642
but way more expensive.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

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