Pro 1 threeway filament guide

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venkel
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2015 2:29 pm

Pro 1 threeway filament guide

Post by venkel » Thu Feb 18, 2016 11:23 am

Just an idea to speed up filament change: a filament guide with one position more.
Attachments
Filament-Guide-MM-001.STL
filament guide STL
(640.32 KiB) Downloaded 119 times
Filament-Guide.jpg
filament guide photo

dhatw
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:25 pm

Post by dhatw » Sat Feb 20, 2016 11:35 pm

Nice idea. I have been thinking I might make one that is easier to load. I have a really hard time trying to thread the filament through the tiny hole in the felt especially when it is on the bottom.

Dhatw.

dhatw
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:25 pm

Post by dhatw » Sun Feb 21, 2016 1:01 am

venkel wrote:Just an idea to speed up filament change: a filament guide with one position more.
Hi Venkel,

Can you tell me what material and slicer and the slicer settings you are using please? Your filament guide looks quite smooth. I am not able to get decent quality with any prints as of late. The filament guide and spool holders that came with the printer are very nice, though still not as nice as my Zortrax M200 that I sold. I am currently trying FormFutura HD glass which is supposed to be PETG I was told. The solid color not the translucent stuff. My prints are not smooth and edges and corners are rough. I am currently trying Repetier Host (I have tried it with FelixBuilder) to see if it makes a difference.

Thanks, Dhatw.

venkel
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2015 2:29 pm

Post by venkel » Sun Feb 21, 2016 9:11 pm

Hi Dhatw,

you ask a lot in one question.
* PLA, in this case from Makerpoint.nl, but most will do.
* Simplify3D, my favorite. Felix Builder has some nice features too, but I need S3D to check g-code before printing (FB has no slicing preview).
* Layer 0,15mm, first layer 150% thickness and 120% extrusion.
* General extrusion 100%.
* 1mm retraction.
* No support because it's not needed.
* First layer 190°C, rest 180°C.
* Bed 55°C, cleaned with alcohol.
* Fan first layer off, rest 60%.
* 4 shells, 4 bottom layers, 5 top layers.
* 20% infill, rectangular.
* 10% infill overlap.
* Speed 2400mm/min, outline 60%. First layer 60%.
* Print islands without optimization (sequentially).
That's about it.

I have the clear HD glass and it prints beautifully as long as you use 100% infill. Needs many top layers to get smooth over infill.

ABS prints even smoother on this printer.

In general this printer is much more precise than my previous UM II. Hotend, extruder and fan are way better.

Hope this helps.

danielkschneider
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:29 pm
Location: Geneva
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Post by danielkschneider » Wed Feb 24, 2016 7:31 pm

Hi Venkel,
I see that you used 150% thickness and 120% extrusion for the first layer. I noticed that (after the last firmware upgrade I believe) small objects don't seem to stick well if printed with 0.15 layers, so I did something similar.

Wouldn't it be better to have the bed go up a bit (e.g. 0.1 mm or maybe less) at the end of the start code, e.g.:

G1 Z-.1 F3000

And then only use something like 120% thickness ? IMHO, (but then I am not an expert) in an ideal world the first layer should not have to be very different (except for printing it much slower than the rest.)

- Daniel

PS: I noticed that some "modern" PLAs that include lots of pigments don't seem to print well at lower temperatures.
Last edited by danielkschneider on Wed Feb 24, 2016 7:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

danielkschneider
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:29 pm
Location: Geneva
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Post by danielkschneider » Wed Feb 24, 2016 7:39 pm

dhatw wrote: I am currently trying FormFutura HD glass which is supposed to be PETG I was told. The solid color not the translucent stuff. My prints are not smooth and edges and corners are rough.
I didn't try FormFutura HD glass, but t-glase which is a kind of PET(T) and I don't know if it is similar to yours. I did not manage to print (nice looking) small layers. Good results were with 0.25mm or 0.3 layers and very slow speed (about 15mm/s for contours).

- cheers ! Daniel
Attachments
t-glasse-megaphone-s6.jpg

venkel
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2015 2:29 pm

Post by venkel » Thu Feb 25, 2016 9:29 am

With the first layer you need to compensate for small errors in the print bed and in the calibration height. I measured the bed to have up to 0,04mm waves. Let's presume the calibration adds another 0,01mm error. If you would print a 0,15mm layer, the error is 33% of the layer thickness ((0,04+0,01)/0,15). At 0,225mm the error is 22% ((0,04+0,01)/0,225). Then, if you compensate flow to 120%, there is enough pressure on the first layer for good adhesion over the entire bed surface.

danielkschneider
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:29 pm
Location: Geneva
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Post by danielkschneider » Thu Feb 25, 2016 10:26 am

venkel wrote:With the first layer you need to compensate for small errors in the print bed and in the calibration height.
Ah thanx :) I didn't understand that nor even think about it !

... but I now do understand why recent prints did not go as well as when the machine was new. I printed with TPEs and other materials that stick too well to the Kapton and after removing the prints I just ignored these new little irregularities, mistakenly.

dhatw
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:25 pm

Post by dhatw » Thu Feb 25, 2016 11:43 am

Thank you both for your replies. They were both very helpful. I am continuing to try a variety of settings to get a smoother finish and Felix has been responsive. I have attached an image showing the finish to which I refer. Have either of you tried any prints with sharp corners? I may try turning up the jerk settings to get sharper corners, all of mine are coming out rounded.
Dhatw.
Attachments
20160224_052035.jpg

danielkschneider
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:29 pm
Location: Geneva
Contact:

Post by danielkschneider » Thu Feb 25, 2016 7:53 pm

dhatw wrote: Have either of you tried any prints with sharp corners? I may try turning up the jerk settings to get sharper corners, all of mine are coming out rounded.
Dhatw.
Depends on what you mean by sharp :) I found that PLA is pretty OK, but if want something sturdier, did you try "Bridge Nylon". It's not too difficult to print and created pretty sharp edges on a stick that was positioned horizontally. Printed vertically, the corners would have been round I believe.

On the negative side, since this filament will sputter (it's got water inside that it should not have) there will be unwanted threads sticking out and you will have to sand/file the prints

In the picture: white = bridge nylon, pink = PLA
Attachments
20160225_194527.jpg

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