Bolts map to avoid the bolts on the printbed.

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satoer
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Location: Netherlands

Bolts map to avoid the bolts on the printbed.

Post by satoer » Tue Dec 11, 2012 2:24 pm

I always try to avoid the bolts in the printbed. Till now it was just a bit guessing, slice, printing, realigning re-slice and print again. But now I’ve found a simple solution. I’ve made a CM grid and imported it in Repetier host. Align it exactly over the Repetier host grid (with right mouse button), slice and print.
felix-grid.jpg
Make a picture and now you’ve got an exact map where the bolts are. Remember that the outside line isn’t printed that’s why the 0 is outside the grid. (the 0 point is the big dot in Repetier host)
felix-printmap.jpg
You may try my grid map photo but if you want an exact map of your own you can download below STL and print a grid yourself.
Attachments
Felix Repertier grid [V1].STL
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My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

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gfeliksdal
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Post by gfeliksdal » Tue Dec 11, 2012 7:49 pm

Cool :), this is very usefull. To prevent the object from printing directly on the heatresistors, I forced the motors through their steps and let it print at a different location. This is way more elegant...I remember u used a glass plate to print on, why do you now print on the kapton tape?

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer » Wed Dec 12, 2012 1:07 pm

Well, the glass plate worked perfect… but after some time it became less and less adhesive. I didn’t understand why this was. I thought it was because grease from the melted fillament filled the scratches on the sanded glass plate. Re-sanded the glass plate and tried again, but still wrapping problems. So I tried the Kapton tape solution again (removed glass plate and recalibrated the hot-bed hot-end distance), this time with acetone. Worked great… but after a while the same wrapping problems occurred.. Removed the Kapton, and put new Kapton on it… Same wrapping problems…

… but I’ve found the problem. The distance between the hot-end became too much. Although it seemed like it was spot on calibrated, a little tweak of maybe 0,5mm made an enormous difference. The hot-end really need to flatten the fillament into the hot-plate.

So… I figure that this problem was also the cause of the wrapping on the glass plate. I probably will go back to the glass plate. But I want to experiment with isolation on the back of the hot plate first. Otherwise it takes a lot of time heating up the glass plate.
Last edited by satoer on Thu Dec 13, 2012 2:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

Lioric
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 1:13 am

Post by Lioric » Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:01 pm

satoer wrote:The hot-end really need to flatten the fillament into the hot-plate.
Actually that is not necessary (the "to REALLY flatten the extruded plastic"). The "trick" is to just use a hot first layer, I use 230 for the first layer (or couple of layers) with no fan, and then back to normal temps for the following layers, with fan on if needed

I have this process automated with the printer host. The printed part will stick extremely well to the printing bed.

Trnquill
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Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2012 10:01 am

Post by Trnquill » Thu Dec 13, 2012 7:34 am

Lioric wrote:I have this process automated with the printer host. The printed part will stick extremely well to the printing bed.
How do you do this? Is it possible to include such stuff to gcode? I'd love to have my machine do the heat thing when printing from SD card!

Lioric
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 1:13 am

Post by Lioric » Thu Dec 13, 2012 5:32 pm

Actually "ALL" is in g-code (temp control in sfact is called chamber if I remember correctly) is just that in Repetier Host profiles this is disabled and manual temperature control is used (and even this is g-code)

I'm using my own printer host so I fully control the printing process, and as part of this I can set the desired temp based on layer height among other factors (as room temp)

But most probably you can automate this in Repetier Host by using the "Start code" support, just put there a temp of 230 and wait (M116) and activate the chamber support with the desired temp, so when printing it will start with the higher temp and will slowly return to the desired temp in the next layers

As for using the SD card, you need to simply parse the g-code files (any text editor with automated regex support will do the trick to automate the process) put M104 S230 and M116 at the top, locate the first layer and place a M104 S"yourRegularTemp" after that and save

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