Next version wannahaves

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Lioric
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 1:13 am

Re: Next version wannahaves

Post by Lioric » Sat Aug 03, 2013 1:15 am

dognotdog wrote:
Lioric wrote:OT but, what Felix printers has to do with "reprap" anyway? It seems you are in the wrong forum if you are interested in repraps. Maybe you can use a Felix as a repstrap if you are into it, but other than that I don't see any relation between both
The fact that I can print parts to modify the printer. That all other parts are commonly available, maybe not in the hardware store, but there are no specialized parts save the hot-end.

The only difference to other common reprap printers is that the parts aren't open source, but for me that was only a slight disadvantage, given the good design. The felix is factually a reprap printer, as its parts are manufactured on itself.
Makes no sense. I asked about your "in the spirit of the reprap movement". Felix is a 3D printer and that is the only thing that has similar to repraps nothing else, so asking to keep it from evolving just because you want to continue using your printer "in the spirint of repraps" makes no sense in a closed source printer.

*Sorry for the off topic, please continue with the wannahaves thread

dognotdog
Posts: 181
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:22 pm

Post by dognotdog » Sat Aug 03, 2013 3:08 pm

Lioric wrote:Makes no sense. I asked about your "in the spirit of the reprap movement". Felix is a 3D printer and that is the only thing that has similar to repraps nothing else, so asking to keep it from evolving just because you want to continue using your printer "in the spirint of repraps" makes no sense in a closed source printer.
Who's asking to keep it from evolving? The replicable parts are what makes it a good printer for the tinkerer crowd, see previous discussion about the different market segments. Making it unrepairable/unmodifiable puts it into a completely different market, and discourages community driven innovation. I doubt there would be a v2.0 printer now if that's how it had been from the start.

Kjetilei
Posts: 334
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Stavanger, Norway

Post by Kjetilei » Sun Aug 04, 2013 2:01 am

There is nothing prohibiting Guillaume and us from mixing and matching injection molded parts and printed parts on the printer. The way I see it Guillaume could (and most likely should) introduce innovations/upgrades through printed parts (to retain flexibility/speed) and then switch over to injection molded versions of the parts when the printed parts have proven themselves to be "successful"/stable.

And as Guillaume has written: the parts will still be printable as well :)

hoolito
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:15 pm

Post by hoolito » Sun Aug 04, 2013 1:33 pm

Fully agree. You could still design, print and upgrade your whole extruder carriage if you wish to. The printer still remains hackable.

On the philosophical angle of strategical choice of production methods I choose printing reliability over "spirituality" :-). So if outgrowing FDM-PLA makes the printer reliable for printing ABS or other materials (for example), I'd choose this way in a split second. My biggest wannahave is more of a mission statement: that my printer would REQUIRE less tinkering and guessing to work (note that you can always experiment if you want). Both the hardware and the software side need to evolve towards this if Felix and the rest of the low-end sector wants to grow the market.
Sometimes I just need my printer to work.

But, I'm all for continuous improvement, short design iterations, and rapid development. I think being able to print its parts did bring Felix to where it is now technically, so I'd take this in mind before moving to injection moulding.... I'd like to offer my advice on this... There are other production techniques also offering better accuracy, can process materials with higher temperature resistance, are more flexible in terms of production batch sizes and have much shorter lead times.

+1 for the suggestions of eturner and the coming improvements Guillaume posted a couple of days ago...
As for my concrete wannahaves (which might be offered as options/upgrades too):
  • Loose the archaic LCD/SD option in favor of a networked, browser-based interaction. I posted my experiment on this forum. This REALLY is incredibly more convenient and useful and it has comparable or the same cost. Plus I think it is easier hackable for the people that needs this.
  • Add some hot-end external cleaning mechanism (maybe a sort of cradle where the hot-end goes to when idle and stopped) and a better purging routine.
  • Make the extruder carriage lighter by moving both fans to the fixed frame and routing the air through hoses instead.
  • Add some sort of enclosure to control the environmental conditions. This would not only improve the thermal management of the process but also keep the printer from gathering dust (less maintenance > more reliability).
  • Settle for a spool holder/filament routing design and add it as an option or as a "official" free printable item. Your current filament router is nice. I saw it today on the picture of this year's MAKE magazine 3D printer shootout ;-) > Go Felix 2.0!!!!

    As a bonus:
  • Please,please,please get a better forum engine. This knowledge exchange platform is almost as critical as the hardware and the software. It has to at least be able to compile a summary of the unread posts (maybe RSS?) and be accessible through mobile apps (Tapatalk?). A more active moderation would be also nice for a better admin of reference information (slicer profiles, settings, downloadable accessories...
My 2 centavos.

Cheers!
Felix 2.0

JTa
Posts: 36
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 6:02 pm
Location: Finland

Post by JTa » Sun Aug 04, 2013 4:02 pm

hoolito wrote: [*]Please,please,please get a better forum engine. This knowledge exchange platform is almost as critical as the hardware and the software. It has to at least be able to compile a summary of the unread posts (maybe RSS?) and be accessible through mobile apps (Tapatalk?). A more active moderation would be also nice for a better admin of reference information (slicer profiles, settings, downloadable accessories...[/list]
Try clicking the "Board Index" link in the top of the page. You will find couple of links to access unanswered, unread and new posts plus active topics in the top of the page then.

hoolito
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:15 pm

Post by hoolito » Mon Aug 05, 2013 12:00 am

That does at least compile the unread posts, thanks!!!!!
(Those 3 things are a tip of the iceberg though... I should elaborate on another post but I guess I'd bore everyone else to death.. :-)
I still vote for a better forum...
Felix 2.0

EDaS
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 4:08 pm

Post by EDaS » Mon Aug 05, 2013 12:55 pm

HI there,

I love the Felix printer. I had a CubeX Duo for about 2 months - but had to return it as it never worked. The Felix is an entirely better experience of 3D printing.

My only complaint so far is that the bed could be better. I am often having to print parts that cover the whole bed - using almost a full spool of material - and the Al bed as fitted is not flat enough to do this. I am at present printing on 4m frosted glass - coated with CubeX glue - a very expensive product from 3D systems. Having said that - the Cube glue works very well - and can be used for many prints before washing off and replacing.

Anyway - I suspect that the Felix needs a glass - or other completely flat bed as standard. So far - that's my only complaint.

Saamec
Posts: 157
Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2013 9:28 am

Post by Saamec » Sun Sep 01, 2013 12:18 am

Why do you use adhesive for glass? I'm typing on 2 mm of normal glass. PLA sticks to the glass is very strong, so the item cannot be removed from the table until it cools down. The item is removed itself as the cooling of the table. No adhesive. The surface is easily cleaned and washed, after printing the PLA remains perfectly clean, if not to touch. To print ABS plastic glass apply a solution of ABS and acetone.

Suggest making a buffet and roasted glass, 2 mm glass Edge process diamond U-shaped abrasive. and then we all run out of questions on the quality of a surface of a table)) and fingerprints will be an ideal. Holes for mounting and calibration can be done diamond drills.

Print PLA plastic on the glass, without glue, ointment, spray, and others, always the perfect result!!!

alanh
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2013 7:08 pm

Post by alanh » Fri Oct 18, 2013 1:53 pm

Anyone seen the new Ultimaker 2.

It's down to 0.02mm layers and a glass bed which apparently doesn't need any glue, hairspray etc for good sticking prints. I'd love to have that bed on my Felix !

Capella_Ben
Posts: 88
Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:01 am
Location: Queensland, Australia

Post by Capella_Ben » Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:28 am

Not sure if this idea has been though of a before; instead of using a bowden tube setup to move the extruder motor from the X carriage, how about mounting the motor to the frame and using a flexible drive shaft to the carriage to drive the extruder.

Drive shaft twisting could be a problem. One way around that would be to have a reduction gear on the carriage before the extruder. That way there would be less torque applied to the shaft.
Ben
..
Felix 3.0 (upgraded from 2.0)

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