Next version wannahaves

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kimmoli
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Re: Next version wannahaves

Post by kimmoli » Tue Apr 09, 2013 7:08 pm

I have routed (by mistake) the extruder wires like in picture below, and there is zero movement on thermistor wires.
(Later there is added support for wires which is connected to the motor)

The "production support" could be simple cable-wrap ear close to the motor, which would be rather easy to add to the extruder part??
wiringathead.jpg

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gfeliksdal
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Post by gfeliksdal » Tue Apr 09, 2013 8:33 pm

The thermistors are made to spec of an 100kOhm epcos thermistor which is able to withstand 300 degC. I gave feedback to the supplier regarding the thermistor that there was quite some failure. They will look into it. The breakage is usually the element inside the thermistor which dies unfortunately.

dognotdog
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Post by dognotdog » Tue Apr 09, 2013 10:16 pm

Weird, as I am able to see it fail/work by wiggling the wiring.

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gfeliksdal
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Post by gfeliksdal » Tue Apr 09, 2013 10:22 pm

Oh, it depends on how you mounted the cables I guess :)...If you provide some tension relieve by guiding/mounting it on the fan with a cable-tie, it should not fail by wiggling. Or at least I haven't experienced problems that way.

Mayhem
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Post by Mayhem » Sat Jun 22, 2013 10:21 am

It would be nice if the extruder has removable nozzle and i think the extruder base needs somekind of modifications since the heat builds up in there when printing abs.
Felix 2.0----> 3.0
V4 hot end
Simplyfy 3D
Kisslicer
Autodesk fusion 360

JTa
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Post by JTa » Sat Jun 22, 2013 11:08 pm

Easier to change hot-end + possibility to use any available hot-ends. ie. different holding clamp that can be changed. Also possibility to switch it to e.g. Dremel holder or "syringe" that can print something like sugru: http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130621- ... sugru.html

Also, quick change of the print heads requires that there are connectors for the wires. It would be better if the parts that are under stress / heat were redesigned and manufactured in aluminium.

superhornet59
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Post by superhornet59 » Fri Jun 28, 2013 10:44 pm

One thing I'd like to suggest is a hotter bed heater. For PLA, 45-60 degrees is fine, but as I have found online, temperatures upwards of 100 degrees are required to reliably get ABS to stick warp free. The Felix heater struggles very hard to get over 90 degrees and peaks soon after. I have tried blue tape and even though the abs sticks amazingly well to the blue tape itself, the force of the warping is so strong that it tears the tape off the bed.

seaton
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Post by seaton » Sat Jun 29, 2013 7:24 am

I't like to see on the electronics have all unused I/O and especially I2C and SPI bought out to a header, with the ramps this is the case, however the new board has it all removed, plus I'd like to see the schematic put online.
Stephen...

Felix 2.0 -> Felix 3.0 dual
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Have you added your Felix to the Map? http://goo.gl/maps/HajnZ

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eturner
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Post by eturner » Wed Jul 24, 2013 2:33 am

Would be good to see a replacement for the aluminum heat bed. After browsing the forums and having my own bed warped seems like this is a consistent problem people are experiencing.
-Hotter heat bed or an official insulation to protect the y-axis/z-axis carrier and increase temperatures
-4-point adjustment system for heat bed
-Wingnuts or knob of some kind for adjusting bed height, maybe some kind of tool to do it?
-Something that would have been really helpful would be a little kit supplied with the printer, containing oil for the z-axis spindle, bed cleaner, tool for bed adjustment, etc.
-And the instruction manual for the diy kit. In my opinion it needs just a final proof read for finalization. It was clear most of the manual had been adapted from the 1.5 and was at some points unclear and misleading (for example the bearings of the y-axis were suggested to be held in with a length of screw, that was 10mm too long and resulted in it being loose)
Although its easy enough to figure out and overall isn't a hard assembly, a few tweaks would potentially save consumers some headaches.
-Skeinforge could also have a few pages explaining it in the manual, everyone eventually moves past the default settings and it is a long road before you can competently configure your own splicing.

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gfeliksdal
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Post by gfeliksdal » Sat Jul 27, 2013 10:14 am

Thanks for all the tips and comments. Just for your information, we are investigating and continuously searching for ways to properly fix it. Unfortunately it doesn't go as fast as hoped. We have been very quiet on the forum, due to unforeseen overwhelming demand we are working almost 24h a day to keep the business running as good as possible. We are greatfull to have a so many active members on the forum and appreciate all the help and feedback.

Hereby the ongoing research and aimed roll out within 2-4 months.
Heated bed:
We have had several prototypes which would address all the issues experienced in the forum. From carbon fibre to thicker alu sheets. Our best hope now is an sandwich aluminum plate. It is lighter and much stiffer than the 2mm plate. Also there is no change in heating. Also looking into investigating insulation, first prototype is on it's way.
Hot-end: We have ordered a proto hot-end with exchangable tip. This should make life easier with hot-end jams. Also the tip and heater changed from alu to brass.
Dual Extruder: A new dual extruder is being tested at the moment. The extrusion mechanism is reverted to a leverarm, the current extruder arm is too critical. The setup will be modular. So easy to upgrade from single to dual extrusion.
Printed parts: The printed parts will slowly move to injection molded variants. Printed parts are great, but production wise it is far from optimal. We have a lot of printers running day and night, which is quite involving. We like the fact that updates can still be printed out, and mounted still like it before, that's why the parts are designed with injection moldability and printability in mind. Besides that by using materials other than PLA, better printquality can be achieved by increased overal stiffness of the machine parts. Also temperature resistance will greatly be improved, making it safe to print with ABS withouth having sagging PLA parts without taking precautions or corrective measures.

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