Pro 1 discussion

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dhatw
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:25 pm

Pro 1 discussion

Post by dhatw » Mon Dec 07, 2015 5:25 pm

Hello, this is my first post in about 2 years. I almost bought a 2.0 then and ended up buying a Zortrax M200. Awesome printer by the way. I am now looking for some more freedom and particularly would like to print with nylon and ABS carbon fibre. I just bought a PRO 1 yesterday and can't weight to get my hands on it. I even bought some Taulman alloy 910 and PCTPE already. I was surprised to see that there were no other posts about the PRO 1 and hoped that if I got the ball rolling it might help with that. So let's hear your thoughts.

Cheers, Dhatw.

dhatw
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:25 pm

Post by dhatw » Sat Dec 12, 2015 4:33 am

Just thought I would share, it's been hard to find new images.

Image
Image

Stealth_fighter
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2015 1:20 pm

Post by Stealth_fighter » Tue Dec 15, 2015 3:34 pm

Hi.
I am very interestid about this printer. I have been waiting for development of 3D printers for few years and now there are few ones I am interestid.
What kind of experiense you have so far with your new printer?

dhatw
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:25 pm

Post by dhatw » Tue Dec 15, 2015 3:54 pm

Hi Stealth_fighter, I don't have my PRO 1 yet. Should be hear the first week of January. I am hoping this topic will attract anyone that has one already though.

danielkschneider
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:29 pm
Location: Geneva
Contact:

Post by danielkschneider » Thu Dec 17, 2015 5:42 pm

I got a Pro 1 since Dec. 15 and here are my first impressions and tips.

1) Very first steps (my own experience)

Unpacking and assembly: Very easy and very fast (about 5 minutes)

Testing with the test file: A bit more difficult since the SD card was dead (maybe it got damaged during the transport). After I got the contents of the SD card from support, it printed flawlessly without any calibration work.

Connecting to the printer: Was not possible because of missing drivers (Win7/8), but you can get them from either Arduino or (probably by now) the Felix web site.
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/ArduinoDue#toc8

First print using Felix Builder: Scratches on the print bed since the version I had installed did not include start gcode for auto-calibration. Therefore: MAKE DAMN SURE that your slicer code includes statements that will go trough the auto-calibration. You can UPGRADE within Felix Builder.

Configure Printer -> Edit Profiles -> Update (button)

I strongly suggest not using any another slicer if you do not exactly understand how calibration works and how the print figures out its Z position.

2) Calibration:

There is gcode that will probe the print bed in three (or more locations), i.e. the hotend is pressed down. This can cause little motors to level the print bed and it will tell the printer its Z position. If you do not adapt your gcode, it is very likely that the hotend is too low and it could scratch the print bed.

There may be other strategies, i.e. you could adjust the bed through the LCD or through a control program. However, you still have to make sure that the generated gcode from Felix Builder does not defeat this. Frankly, I didn't have time to look into this.

3) First prints and standard operations

Once you get the right g-code by simply upgrading Felix Builder (see above), the printer is really easy to use. Just import a part, slice and send. Neither calibration nor preheating is required.

Thanx to the easily removable platform, printed parts are now very easy to remove. I suggest buying at least two platforms, e.g. you can remove a print and let it cool down while a new platform is used for a new print. You also can put lots of glue on one and not on the other. Finally, you can keep a forth one for doing reckless experiments ;)

I cannot judge the print quality yet since I had a few pieces in the "to print" pipeline that could be done using "medium" quality. Didn't have time either to change Felix Builder slicer settings. But what I got with "medium settings" looks better than anything I did on my other printers until now.

4) Felix builder software:

Menu items are a bit confusing and some software components cannot be found in the initial Felix Builder window without loading and submitting a part. I.e. to see all software components, you either have to load a part or else locate these other programs in your computer.

For configuration (direct acccess), this is also available in the control panel:
- C:\Program Files (x86)\Materialise\BuildProcessorSystem\Manager.exe
For quick submitting gcode to the printer:
- C:\Program Files (x86)\Materialise\BuildProcessorSystem\SubmitJob.exe
- etc

dhatw
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:25 pm

Post by dhatw » Fri Dec 18, 2015 5:26 pm

I was reading the PRO 1 manual and it says that you need to use PLA to do a calibration (I think it for the heads), can anyone confirm this please. I have no intention of ever printing with PLA, so I certainly don't want to by any.

danielkschneider
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:29 pm
Location: Geneva
Contact:

Post by danielkschneider » Fri Dec 18, 2015 8:19 pm

dhatw wrote:I was reading the PRO 1 manual and it says that you need to use PLA to do a calibration (I think it for the heads), can anyone confirm this please. I have no intention of ever printing with PLA, so I certainly don't want to by any.
Well, in the Pro 1 shipping there is a free meter of PLA I believe and you can use it for a first time calibration :)

I cannot think of a good reason why PLA must be used for single head calibration. Calibrating involves the nozzle pressing down on the printbed in three locations. It could be done without plastic and the reason to heat plastic is to eliminate the typical plastic layer off the tip. Anyhow, at least a light version of the calibration routine should be run before each print (as start-up g-code) and also because of this I really don't see why PLA as opposed to any other plastic would be needed for any calibration procedure.

I didn't yet have time to calibrate the dual head and and cannot comment on that. Maybe PLA because PLA doesn't cool down well and remains soft so that you can drive across it and then later make adjustments ? (just speculation, but if that is the case, just heat your ABS to 265 degrees.)

I just wonder how you plan to cope with warping. Small ABS figurines should print just great, but for bigger pieces you need an oven (heated chamber).

- daniel
PS: One cool thing about the felix Pro is its headlight. If I had a good camera I could take nice pictures ;)
Attachments
20151217_155548[1].jpg

dhatw
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:25 pm

Post by dhatw » Sat Dec 19, 2015 3:09 am

Thank you for your reply. I guess I will have to wait and see when mine arrives. What are you printing in the photo?

Dhatw.

danielkschneider
Posts: 49
Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:29 pm
Location: Geneva
Contact:

Post by danielkschneider » Sat Dec 19, 2015 6:12 pm

I am printing a variant of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28661 (some lettering on top to say thanx to some administrative officers who did a nice end-of the year job for me). To the left you can see a "cooling" tower, absolutely not needed here, but it's in the slicer settings and I didn't take it away (Build strategy -> auxiliary strategy)

Anyhow, I thought it would be interesting to attach the g-code that is used at start for each job. (Remember, maybe you will have to update. No start code = scratched surface).

Code: Select all

; Preparations
; ======================================================
M117 Preheating
{IF_BED} M140 S%%TemperatureBed%%  ; Heatup Bed and and continue
{IF_NOZZLE1} M104 T0 S%%TemperatureNozzle1%% ; Heatup hot-end and continue
{IF_NOZZLE2} M104 T1 S%%TemperatureNozzle2%% ; Heatup hot-end and continue
{IF_NOZZLE2} T1
{IF_NOZZLE1} T0
; ======================================================
G91    ; Relative positioning
G1 Z5 F5000   ; Move platform 5mm away from nozzle
G90    ; Absolute positioning
G28 X   ; Home X and Y first
G28 Y			; Home X and Y first
G1 X140 Y230		; Move to optimal z-homing position
G28 Z			; Home z (Firmware will turn heater on up to approx 150 degC)
G1 Z5 F5000		; Move table down 5mm
G32			; Do automatic leveling routine
G1 X140 Y235		; Move to home position again
G28 Z			; Home z
; Purge Nozzles
; ======================================================
{IF_BED} M190 S%%TemperatureBed%%		; Heatup Bed and and wait
{IF_NOZZLE1} ; Purge left extruder by drawing 2 lines
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	T0				; Make sure first extruder is selected
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	M109 S%%TemperatureNozzle1%%	; Heatup hot-end and wait
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	M117 Purge left extruder
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	G92 E0					; reset extruder
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	G1 Z1.0 F3000				; move z down little to prevent scratching of surface
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	G1 X20.0 Y244.90 Z0.3 F3000.0		; move to start-line position
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	G1 X200.0 Y244.90 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15		; draw 1st line
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	G1 X200.0 Y244.6 Z0.3 F3000.0		; move to side a little
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	G1 X20.0 Y244.6 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30		; draw 2nd line
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	G1 E28.5 F3000				; retract filament 1.5mm
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	G92 E0					; reset extruder
{IF_NOZZLE1} 	; done purging left extruder
{IF_NOZZLE2} 	; Purge extruder 1 by drawing 2 lines
{IF_NOZZLE2} 	T1
{IF_NOZZLE2} 	M109 S%%TemperatureNozzle2%%		; Heatup hot-end and wait
{IF_NOZZLE2} 	M117 Purge right extruder
{IF_NOZZLE2} 	G92 E0					; reset extruder
{IF_NOZZLE2} 	G1 X200.0 Y244.3 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15		; draw 1st line
{IF_NOZZLE2} 	G1 X200.0 Y244 Z0.3 F3000.0		; move to side a little
{IF_NOZZLE2} 	G1 X20.0 Y244 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30		; draw 2nd line
{IF_NOZZLE2} 	G1 E28.5 F3000				; retract filament 1.5mm
{IF_NOZZLE2} 	G92 E0					; reset extruder
{IF_NOZZLE2} 	; done purging right extruder
{IF_NOZZLE1}     ; M104 T0 S0 ; only turn off when nozzle 1 is active. 
{IF_NOZZLE2}     ;M104 T1 S0 ; only turn off when nozzle 2 is active. 
{IF_NOZZLE2}     T0 ; make sure startup ends with first nozzle if the first nozzle is used.
M117 FELIXprinting...
You can change these things in the machine settings (first item in the "Edit profiles" Window.
Attachments
Edit Profiles-2015-12-19-2.png
Screenshot of the Felix Builder Edit Profiles Window

dhatw
Posts: 19
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:25 pm

Post by dhatw » Sun Dec 20, 2015 11:49 pm

Thanks Daniel, I really appreciate you including all of that in your post. I am pretty sure that is in the output g-code now. I will have a look later but I do remember seeing most of that at some point.

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