Felix Tec 4 Upgrade: Installed

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kerog
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Re: Felix Tec 4 Upgrade: Installed

Post by kerog » Sun Nov 05, 2017 8:38 am

ElektrOpa wrote:
Hi kerog,
my Felix printer has a similar history. I also got it as a 3.0 Dual Head, upgraded it to 3.1 Dual Head two years ago and now bought the upgrade kit to TEC4 Dual Head, but haven't started the upgrade yet.
I would be very much interested in your experiences before I start to make my own :-)
Hope you soon find the time to describe it. Thanks in advance!
Sorry it's been so long since I posted without a follow up. I took the printer in to demo at our 3D Printing Expo and got a lot of positive responses. I had it set up to print a Sharkz (see Thingiverse) in 11 minutes (takes about 45 on a Printrbot). I was using a 0.5 mm nozzle and 0.4 mm layer height. Still love the removable build plate. I definitely prefer the 0.5 mm nozzle over the 0.35, especially with the variable extrusion widths now in S3D and (I think) Cura.

Anyway, organizing the expo had me a little burnt out, so I haven't fiddled much with the printer in the last couple weeks. I'll try to gather my thoughts on the upgrade process and post some more soon. I gave Guillaume some feedback on the manual, which he may already have incorporated.

A couple quick points:

Part of the upgrade process involves flipping the motors. If you had zip-tie anchors on, they will have to come off to avoid impinging on the new fan guards, and you will need to use some goo-gone or similar to get the residue off.

The wires are labeled for which extruder they connect to on both ends using some heat shrink; pay attention to this when you connect. It should be hard to mess this up, but I had disconnected the connectors and then reconnected the wrong way and had to fix it. Very avoidable.

Measure out the cable wrap before you put it on; I think there were maybe two pieces of unequal length and I picked the wrong one and so ended up a little short going to the power supply. So not as pretty as it could have been down there.

Before putting finalizing the cable wrap at the extruder head, try putting the cover on to see what it will look like and make sure no bare wires are visible.

The mechanism for adjusting the right hot end relative to the left one was finicky for me. Make sure you have the bracket holding the hot ends in place mounted correctly, as it's possible to fasten things tight without it being in right. If you do this you will see afterwards that the fans don't look right/symmetric. This process is complicated a little by the reduced visibility into the positioning of the hot ends because it is behind the bracket/plate with all the harnessing zip-tied to it.

I find the whole z home thing in the new firmware to be a bit annoying, as it always heats up both extruders. Sometimes I just want to do a quick z home and get frustrated at the extra wait involved. However, I do see the rationale behind it, so I may come around. If not, I think I know how to turn that feature off in the firmware.

Take note that the wires for the right-hand extruder might not be long enough to reach the desired terminals with the new routing; they include an extra set of wires for this eventuality, but it kind of assumes you have the newer 3.1 connectorized extruder motors, so you might have to do a splice. Better to measure this out ahead of time to avoid bundling everything up and then discover you have to redo it because it's not quite long enough.

frp
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:58 pm

Post by frp » Sat Jan 06, 2018 12:16 am

I also upgraded my my felixprinters once again to Tec 4 and dual extruder.
It required some ingenuity as a lot of things where NOT straight forward, even totally different, and required some investigation. However in general terms, I must admit that the upgrade is an improvement ... if it al works...
And I also dit some things differently:
I did not rotate the position of the extruder motors since my motors do not have connectors. The sensor is also a bit different. And sure it needs 12V which was not provided on my old motherboard, but took it directly from the power supply connector. ...
As one of the things I definitely did differently is equalising the height of the extruder tips (calibrate Z offset). Instead of using the calibration card, I used a calibrated metal bar of 5mm height ( height is not so important as long as it is flat -> used by metal workers), then connect one cable of my multimeter (in conduction mode -> with a beep sound) to each extruder separately to match the height of the right extruder, and the other cable to the metal bar. I do it all without powering the printer and manually adjusting the Z height, by rotating the spindel. Much easier then using the calibration card.

Now big mysterious problem arises from the darkness .... :
However one new problem arises with the bed levelling: Every time I restart the printer a do a re-leveling and used to work fine, but now it seems like I need an exorcist, as the procedure behaves totally different and does NOTconverge to a solution with a levelled bed... The path of the sensor is different in the sense that it doesn't take much measurements, it mostly just flies over describing a triangle on the surface without taking much measurements. It display then a correction for back and front wheel, and no matter what the rotation on the wheels are, the results cycles between a limited states of values, repeating without converging. Like... back: 77°R, front 77°R; back: 77°L, front 77°L, xxxxxx°L, yyyyyy°R (xxxxxx and yyyyyy are hilaric big numbers, but cyclic repeating values)... Attempt after attempt to measure again....
It happened since I restarted the printer today ... restarting again, power on/off, ... nothing seems to help. Can someone help me on this??? Exorcists, voodoo priests, nerds, mortals, anybody has a clue ????

Hoping for help !!!!
Regards,
FRP

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gfeliksdal
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Post by gfeliksdal » Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:42 pm

Hello FRP,
To fix the issue with the leveling, please place the sensor 0.5mm upwards. This should fix the issue.

frp
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:58 pm

Post by frp » Tue Jan 09, 2018 11:19 pm

Hi Guillaume,
Thanks for your attempt to help, but after lifting up the sensor for 0,5 mm, the problem remains the same. Again I tried turning the wheels in all possible directions and amount of turns, but the resulting numbers to turn the wheels remain the same, without converging. These are either a 6 figures big number of degrees or 77, L or R. And no values in between...
Weird! What could explain such a behaviour ???
It looks like the control system is way out of range but, compared with a normal level from the store, indicates that the system is not really levelled, but still quite close.
Other ideas, or can somebody help?
Kind regards,
FRP

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gfeliksdal
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Post by gfeliksdal » Tue Jan 09, 2018 11:27 pm

Hi FRP, please also reset the eeprom, this also can solve the issue.

frp
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Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:58 pm

Post by frp » Thu Jan 11, 2018 10:50 pm

HI Guillaume,
Your advise of resetting the EEPROM is the solution: M502 and M500, did it!!!
Thanks very much,
frp

ElektrOpa
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 3:16 pm

Post by ElektrOpa » Sun Jan 28, 2018 1:13 pm

Hi kerog,

thanks for your reply, but for me it came to late. I have done my upgrade meanwhile and made my own experiences (good and bad) ;-)
I have also a pretty old version of the motherboard, without connectors and the motors also had no connectors, but to keep up with the actual status I replaced the later with newer version, that have the connectors. The old motors will be used by future projects.
The new cable routing is much better, than the old one and it is now easier as before to replace just one cable, if there is a need for it. But the new routing also caused some problems with the length of the old cables, some of them are to short and I had to solder extensions to them.
The unwrapping of tape on the cables was a pain. I managed it lastly by using very pointy nail scissors and removed the residual glue with lighter gas. But as the warning in the upgrade manual said, I also cut a cable with this procedure and had to do some more soldering.
After all the upgrade works and I like the new removeable print bed too. What I don't like is the homing procedure as you already described it. There are needs to move the z-xis without doing the homing before. For example if I want to clean the nozzle. This is not possible without doing the homing before by using the softwore nore by using the panel. I have to turn the Z-spindle by hand. I guess, here have be done some enhancements in the firmware, at least by adding an "expert mode" or something alike.
If you personally find a solution for it, I would be very much interest on it.
Another thing is, that I have not found a chance till now, to change the high of the first layer below .25 mm. I have changed the value in the slicer (cura) settings, but it still print with 0.25. And, more important, the nozzele temperature regulations works too slow. If for any reason the nozzle blower switches for example from 100 % to 20 % or zero, the nozzle heats up until I get an alarm and the printer stops working without any chance to restart. The message I get is "fatal:heater/sensor failure printer stopped and heaters disable due to this error. Fix error and restart with M999." and a button saying "Problem fixed, continue" which has no function. I think for this I will have to contact the support. Because if I switch on the blower manually in the SW, I have the same problem in the opposite direction. The nozzle cools down to much. I never had such kind of problems before the upgrade.

ElektrOpa
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 3:16 pm

Post by ElektrOpa » Sun Jan 28, 2018 1:27 pm

kerog wrote:
ElektrOpa wrote:
Hi kerog,
my Felix printer has a similar history. I also got it as a 3.0 Dual Head, upgraded it to 3.1 Dual Head two years ago and now bought the upgrade kit to TEC4 Dual Head, but haven't started the upgrade yet.
I would be very much interested in your experiences before I start to make my own :-)
Hope you soon find the time to describe it. Thanks in advance!
Sorry it's been so long since I posted without a follow up. I took the printer in to demo at our 3D Printing Expo and got a lot of positive responses. I had it set up to print a Sharkz (see Thingiverse) in 11 minutes (takes about 45 on a Printrbot). I was using a 0.5 mm nozzle and 0.4 mm layer height. Still love the removable build plate. I definitely prefer the 0.5 mm nozzle over the 0.35, especially with the variable extrusion widths now in S3D and (I think) Cura.

Anyway, organizing the expo had me a little burnt out, so I haven't fiddled much with the printer in the last couple weeks. I'll try to gather my thoughts on the upgrade process and post some more soon. I gave Guillaume some feedback on the manual, which he may already have incorporated.

A couple quick points:

Part of the upgrade process involves flipping the motors. If you had zip-tie anchors on, they will have to come off to avoid impinging on the new fan guards, and you will need to use some goo-gone or similar to get the residue off.

The wires are labeled for which extruder they connect to on both ends using some heat shrink; pay attention to this when you connect. It should be hard to mess this up, but I had disconnected the connectors and then reconnected the wrong way and had to fix it. Very avoidable.

Measure out the cable wrap before you put it on; I think there were maybe two pieces of unequal length and I picked the wrong one and so ended up a little short going to the power supply. So not as pretty as it could have been down there.

Before putting finalizing the cable wrap at the extruder head, try putting the cover on to see what it will look like and make sure no bare wires are visible.

The mechanism for adjusting the right hot end relative to the left one was finicky for me. Make sure you have the bracket holding the hot ends in place mounted correctly, as it's possible to fasten things tight without it being in right. If you do this you will see afterwards that the fans don't look right/symmetric. This process is complicated a little by the reduced visibility into the positioning of the hot ends because it is behind the bracket/plate with all the harnessing zip-tied to it.

I find the whole z home thing in the new firmware to be a bit annoying, as it always heats up both extruders. Sometimes I just want to do a quick z home and get frustrated at the extra wait involved. However, I do see the rationale behind it, so I may come around. If not, I think I know how to turn that feature off in the firmware.

Take note that the wires for the right-hand extruder might not be long enough to reach the desired terminals with the new routing; they include an extra set of wires for this eventuality, but it kind of assumes you have the newer 3.1 connectorized extruder motors, so you might have to do a splice. Better to measure this out ahead of time to avoid bundling everything up and then discover you have to redo it because it's not quite long enough.
Please see my separate post from today. I wanted to omit this long quote but generated it now anyway. Sorry for that.

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gfeliksdal
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Post by gfeliksdal » Tue Jan 30, 2018 8:14 am

Hello ElektrOpa,
The first layer height is easy to adjust, go to slice settings:
cura_engine_first_layer_height_settings.png
If the hot-end cools down too much, please make sure you have resetted the eeprom according to firmware upload instructions. This ensure you have the correct heater parameters. Then also in the slicer/repetier-host also make sure you select the correct printer. The airduct outlet of the tec4 is much bigger than the 3.1 this causes a temperature drop when you put the blower at full power. That's why in the slice profiles the fan speed is gradually increased in 4 steps, but you have to make sure the tec 4 is selected as printer, otherwise the gradual increase is not applied.

Hope this answers your questions.

ElektrOpa
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 3:16 pm

Post by ElektrOpa » Tue Jan 30, 2018 10:43 am

Many thanks for your fast response :-)

I had already done both the EEPROM reset and the selection of TEC4. The described problems came up after that and what bothers me much more is the overheating when the blower switches off, which results in a disruption of my print.
(I tried to insert a picture of the error message here, but it seems I'm to stupid for that )

I will try the adjustment of the layer high with my next print.

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