Bowden feeder with easy release on fillament tension

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satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Bowden feeder with easy release on fillament tension

Post by satoer » Tue Oct 01, 2013 10:04 pm

This is a Bowden tube feeder with an easy release tension lever.
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This way you can fast feed and remove filament by hand without the motor struggling. It’s designed for this E3D carriage but you can use it for other Bowden feed extruders as well. It’s inspired on the KISS extruder (Keep It Simple Stupid) so this probably makes me stupid by complicating the design :P
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I wanted to create a robust extruder that uses all the original parts from the Felix printer. The only thing you need extra is some M3, M4 bolds and springs. I used IKEA clothes pegs (“ PRESSA”)

I’ve made a complete instructional video of the inner workings and how to assemble.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsNm0UfQsyQ
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I Also included a filament spool holder. Just add a 2,5cm aluminum tubing.

You may download all items on Thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:159159
Last edited by satoer on Tue Oct 01, 2013 10:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
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dognotdog
Posts: 181
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:22 pm

Post by dognotdog » Tue Oct 01, 2013 10:35 pm

I do like the quick release mechanism. Do you have any samples from the bowden prints? I'm interested in seeing how it compares to the normal direct extruder.

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer » Tue Oct 01, 2013 10:44 pm

Hi Dognot,

If I don't look at the oozing from the low retraction settings on the original hot end, I actually can't see the difference in quality. Because the quality from the original hot-end was great already. This hot-end I use now is just way more reliable.

I posted a similar answer elsewhere:

Print quality is great, but it was also great with the original Felix hot end. I didn’t had problems with the weight. My main problem was retraction. The filament became stuck behind the PEEK after retraction (even though the aluminium upper part was really tight screwed into the peek. So I needed to adjust the retraction really low which resulted in oozing all over the part. With this new hot end I retract 2 mm without any problems
The second problem was that I couldn’t heat up the hot end reliable above 240 degrees. With this hot end I can easily reach 270 degrees. And way faster. Don’t know why, but it works great.

With the conversion I added a removable glass plate on the heated bed. Adding weight. So the improved X quality is probably killed by the heavier Y haha.
I did this to easily change the print bed adhesion properties. Now I can change between PLA and ABS simply by changing the glass plate. (one has an adhesive PLA sticker for PLA, one has just the bare glass with glue stick for ABS)
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
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Led bar upgrade for your Felix

Saamec
Posts: 157
Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2013 9:28 am

Post by Saamec » Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:14 pm

Dear Satoer, I watched your video and was very impressed. You just space printer. So soon from the original myself almost))) Interesting form of the extruder. In various versions of the other printers have a similar system of submission of plastic. I have a question for you. That's when the supply goes plastic all clear what and how. And while going in the opposite direction at z jumps, when the stepper motor pulls plastic, there are no losses in the reverse? Because the tube tightly to the thread plastic. Or do you remove the error in the settings slicing?
Generally speaking, the idea is really cool. Now I am developing a multi-extruder, which is capable to print different colors from one nozzle. Of course, all the threads of plastic not hang on the stepper motor, so your system is ideal in this sense. The only thing that I think add - magnetic starters, by analogy with magnetic valves in the fuel system of a modern car. Each starter will be responsible for its color plastic. The only disadvantage is that it is for me, difficult to implement in terms of software and implementation of the program and firmware. So I think make a manual switch starter. But there is an advantage in control of the moment of submission of a different color, focusing on segments of printing. Contrast transition will be smooth.

I admire your printer. This standard of operation, purity, and flight altitude of engineering. All very cool.
Waiting for you to answer questions, it is important for me now.

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer » Wed Oct 02, 2013 1:08 pm

Hi Saamec,

Thanks for the compliment. I'm trying to make sense out of you're posting. Looks like it's been translated from another language.
First of all, (I think) you give me to much credits. I'm not the inventor of the Bowden system... actually it's mister Bowden himself who invented it in 1896 hahaha. And this feeder is inspired on the KISS feeder design.

I didn't discover any quality degradation using a Bowden system. Retracting works great with the new E3D extruder and there are no losses of any kind.

I'm sorry, but I didn't understand the story about the "magnetic starters".
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

JTa
Posts: 36
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 6:02 pm
Location: Finland

Post by JTa » Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:11 am

After printing most of the parts I only have one question: Why is this thing so MASSIVE? :) I guess there is some reason for that..?

IMO the base part could be a lot lighter, f.e. the side facing the stepper motor is about 2 mm too thick and the angled supports could be the same thickness (the upper one is almost twice as thick as the lower one) and there is some unnecessary printed flat area on the part facing the aluminium extrusion (between those supports). And that face could also be thinner. :)

The top part needs a diet as well. I can see the internal parts, lever and such, are so thick since you used two springs for the tension. But is that really necessary? Isn't one spring enough? If it's not strong enough, you could always put two springs, one with smaller diameter inside the bigger one to get more gripping power. There's also quite a lot of "empty" space inside. AFAICT, the tension lever with the bearing does not need to move more than 2-3 mm at max. A bit too forgiving tolerances? :D

A small diet on the parts would make it possible to use more of the existing parts like the bolts that already come with the Felix kit. Like M4x25 instead of M4x30 and M4x40 instead of M4x45.. ;)

But in general, this is excellent thing. And kudos for the superb documentation!

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer » Wed Oct 09, 2013 2:52 pm

Well. I wanted to make it really robust. And since weight isn’t an issue because it isn’t on a moveable axis anymore, why wouldn’t I make it as robust as possible. Besides, since everything is printed hollow (I use only 0.15 infill) a thicker wall doesn’t mean a significant weight increase. I didn’t want a flimsy cover like the electronics box on the Felix. Also, the cover needs to handle a part of the forces from the mechanics.

With the design of the mechanics I tried to distribute the forces as even as possible. All the hinges are supported at the front and the back. Also de bearing is supported from both sides instead of one. The dual spring design is also to distribute the forces on both sides of the bearing. And to keep the distance between tension and release as short as possible, two springs parallel of each other makes it twice as stiff.

While designing it, I didn’t keep in mind what lengths of bolds that came with the Felix kit. Just wanted to use the original motor, ribbed wheel and bearing. I have the whole range of M4 and M3 bolds in boxes over here, but you can also buy a two boxes of long and really long and use a cheap bold cutter like this thing:
perstang.jpg
perstang.jpg (24.64 KiB) Viewed 1819 times
(skrew it in, cut, skrew it out).
and there is some unnecessary printed flat area on the part facing the aluminium extrusion (between those supports)
Yess.. this is true, and I just realized it hahaha.

I’m thinking of a dual Bowden or a modular Bowden feeder with build in filament cleaner. But for now, Since it’s not faulty, I leave this design as is. I’ve spend already way too much time in it ;)
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

JTa
Posts: 36
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 6:02 pm
Location: Finland

Post by JTa » Thu Oct 10, 2013 7:15 am

satoer wrote:Well. I wanted to make it really robust. And since weight isn’t an issue because it isn’t on a moveable axis anymore, why wouldn’t I make it as robust as possible. Besides, since everything is printed hollow (I use only 0.15 infill) a thicker wall doesn’t mean a significant weight increase. I didn’t want a flimsy cover like the electronics box on the Felix. Also, the cover needs to handle a part of the forces from the mechanics.
D'oh. For some reason I assumed (!) all the parts should be printed solid. :D
With the design of the mechanics I tried to distribute the forces as even as possible. All the hinges are supported at the front and the back. Also de bearing is supported from both sides instead of one. The dual spring design is also to distribute the forces on both sides of the bearing. And to keep the distance between tension and release as short as possible, two springs parallel of each other makes it twice as stiff.
Yes, I was thinking the idea was exactly this, to have even forces. I guess I'll go and buy some more bolts in different lengths. Fortunately I have plenty of springs so I don't have to go to Ikea, the hell on earth for men. :D
I’m thinking of a dual Bowden or a modular Bowden feeder with build in filament cleaner. But for now, Since it’s not faulty, I leave this design as is. I’ve spend already way too much time in it ;)
If it isn't broken, don't fix it. Thank you again, this is really nice design, hopefully you'll have some time to make it even better sometime soon. :)

satoer
Posts: 436
Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:00 pm
Location: Netherlands

Post by satoer » Fri Oct 18, 2013 2:54 pm

For everyone who has printed it and discovered the tension on the bearing is way too much. I've made a mistake in the parts list. The two 45mm M4 bolds should be 50mm. I've updated the video with annotations and changed the parts list on Thingiverse. Sorry for the inconvenience.
My Felix 1.5 printed designs on Thingiverse
E3D V6 Hot end upgrade for your Felix
Tweezer bracket for your Felix
Led bar upgrade for your Felix

alanh
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2013 7:08 pm

Post by alanh » Thu Oct 24, 2013 8:32 am

Arghhhhh.

Things are failing for me again.

I think I'm gonna get a new pinion gear with sharper teeth.

The current gear is just slipping and eventually stripping enough filament off when pulling and retracting that the gear cogs get clogged and can't pull any more, and eventually everything stops and no more extrusion occurs.

I'm not sure whether it's because I have softer filament or not, but I think the KISStruder does the same thing and throws away the Felix pinion for an RC car pinion, which is my next plan.

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